C h o w p a p i

Jan 18
FOOD, Good Food
Death Of A Small Town Mexican Restaurant: Taco Tico

Part of me came of age at a Taco Tico in the Trademark Shopping Center in Corbin, Kentucky. It was the first restaurant where I ever ate Mexican food; my training table for the nearby Lost World Video Arcade; and where I bought burritos (.65c) to smuggle into the Corbin Cinema.

It’s Friday night, perfect weather, and my daddy has pointed the Country Squire wagon out of the Billy Holler my family has called home since the 1800s. We’re heading into town to see the movies; lost to the sands of time but probably Rambo II or perhaps View To A Kill.

I have a proscribed method of how I plan my evening when allowed off the family farm for a night of frivolity. I like to limber up a bit by  owning the Defender machine at Lost World for an hour or so, then walk 50 yards to Taco Tico, the little adobe restaurant that brought Mexican food to Corbin, Kentucky way back in 1973. This is followed by a good 2 hour movie at the Corbin Cinema.

I would rank these youthful evenings right up with the best New Years Eve celebrations I’ve enjoyed in Amsterdam or Istanbul. There is no finer feeling than, at 12 years old, being allowed off the farm to have an evening on the town in rural Appalachia.

I can even remember the  purple daisy dukes that Vicky Alsip was wearing one night at Taco Tico when I was about 13 years old. Haunted.

Kierkegaard would have had a field day with my Appalachian psyche.

Dan Foley opened the first Taco Tico in his hometown of Wichita Kansas in 1972. He was satisfied for a full 5 years before he began franchising in 1967. A short 6 years later Taco Tico opened in Corbin, Kentucky. Back then Mexicans and Mexican food were scarce in rural Kentucky. I imagine the opening of a bona fide Mexican restaurant was met with fervor.

In 1991 the chain announced plans to sell all of its locations to its franchisees. After years of slumping sales the business had to attempt to remain relevant and this is the course they plotted. Marketing guru Wendell Hearne, of the old Austin band Texas Medicine was instrumental in this decision. While there is precious little information on Foley, Hearne was something of a legend in the industry. He supervised the national roll out of Liquid Paper and upon his passing here in Austin a couple years ago received countless homilies from the lions of the music industry.

Corbin is changing. The city recently went wet. After decades of temperance the wild era of legal liquor consumption was ushered in by the voters in 2012. This new Corbin is set to welcome in a Marshall’s department store. Taco Tico is being bulldozed to accommodate parking for the endeavor.

The Mexican restaurant is reportedly moving to nearby London. Dry as a bone, the competition for eater’s dollars will not be nearly as fraught with peril in Corbin’s northern neighbor.

On my yearly visits to my hometown I would always pop in to Taco Tico to get a bean and cheese burrito and a Pepsi to slake my thirst. From a hard seat in the window I could peer out and see the shuttered Corbin Cinema and the long-gone Lost World Arcade. I’d sit there for a good hour, just wool gathering and daydreaming about my youth in that forgotten part of the world.

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8 Responses to “ Death Of A Small Town Mexican Restaurant: Taco Tico ”
  1. Fred Smith

    Jan 30, 2013

    That’s kind of sad, I feel sorry for them. At least they had a good run and they didn’t fail right as they started. Do you possible know of any local <a href=”http://www.elmolinitos.com”>mexican restaurants in Tucson</a>? If Taco Tico were still around, and they were over here, I’d probably visit them from time to time to support them, but that doesn’t seem possible. Thanks for sharing the story though.

  2. It is a rare chance that a Mexican restaurant would come to a strange place. The news that this restaurant had closed has brought sadness to my family and especially to my kids because they so love the food in Taco Tico. We are no Mexicans but we just love their food.

  3. Tammy Everitt

    Jun 4, 2013

    So very heartbroken to find out over Memorial Day weekend that the Taco Tico in Corbin, Ky., has been shuttered. I was so delighted a couple of years ago to find them as they closed a long time ago in my hometown. I was tickled to death to get my beloved sancho again. Thankfully our last trip south in November we stopped. Sure would have eaten another one if I would have known they would be gone the next time I traveled through.

  4. I was born (1971 in Wichita, KS) addicted to Taco Tico because my mother constantly CRAVED it when she was pregnant with me. Taco Tico was also my first job at age 16. I have a long love affair with the underappreciated chain. I moved to Arlington, TX in late 2005 and went into serious Taco Tico withdrawal. Every time I would go home to Wichita to visit family and friends, I had to go there and get my fill of combo burritos, enchiladas and their green chili sauce! Imagine my unpleasant surprise when I discovered they were gone… shut down due to unpaid taxes. Driving past the now-empty locations still makes me weepy.

    Lately I’ve been thinking a road-trip to Arkansas or Louisiana might be in order. Crazy? Perhaps. Especially since I have no clue which of the locations in other states are still open. The website doesn’t seem to be functioning properly. I’ve even fantasized about opening my own franchise here. But somehow I doubt people in the DFW area would “get” the awesomeness that once was Taco Tico. 

    Some of my fondest Wichita memories are of hanging out at the East Douglas location with my fellow College Hill Park freaks as we gorged ourselves, listened to the jukebox and played video games. Not only do I feel your pain, but I greatly appreciate your lovely ode to Taco Tico.      

  5. My first exposure to Taco Tico was in Muncie Indiana back in the mid 70’s. When I moved back to Louisiana, New Orleans, it was the mainstay of my diet: three tacos, green chile and one beef enchilada one cheese enchilada same tray. We used to have four there, but are now down to two. I now live up north, far up north, back in Ohio; a land devoid of fine eating establishments such as Taco Tico. When I go back home though, I’d always make it a point to drive thru both Lexington AND Corbin for my standard fare. This last time though, a year ago, I thought that I’d pass Lexington by. It was early yet. I cannot tell you of my sadness when I learned, saw with my own eyes, that the Corbin Location was no more. Only those of us who have tasted Taco Tico and have lost it can truly appreciate what so many have taken for granted. I will pass your way soon again and rest assured, I will stop at the London location!

  6. It really has been a joy to buy cheep good taco’s from TACO TICO! and i even have a old wooden food tray from there i love. but here in northwest arkansas there gone… :(.. there is some still in kansas usa witch i will be going to this summer and seeing if there as good as these one’s was!!!…… come back taco tico!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  7. RL Reeves Jr
    RL Reeves Jr

    Dec 1, 2014

    I believe Miss Vicky Alsip has passed http://www.wikitree.com/wiki/Alsip-96 although I’m not one hundred percent certain that this is the Vicky I mentioned in the article

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