Once you muscle your way past the sidewalk hawkers trying to corral you into one of Kumkapi’s numerous fish restaurants you can find some good places to eat. The backstreets of this lovely neighborhood are chock a block with fresh markets, lokantasis, meat markets, kebab houses and every other manner of eatery.
After an historic [my first ever Istanbul] meal at Doyuran Lokantasi the sweet tooth is kicking in when I recall the little mini review the lads at Istanbul Eats tacked onto the end of their Doyuran article.
Boris’ in Yeri is a stone’s throw from Doyuran Lokantasi but it feels like it came from a different era entirely. Walking into this historic, century old mom and pop the air is thick with an aroma that I can’t quite place. I know the specialty of the house to be Kaymak, a thickened sweet cream made from the milk of buffaloes and I wonder if perhaps an errant buffalo has been tethered in the back of the establishment, no doubt well tended to as long as she continues to put forth with her delicious dairy.
Boris’ In Yeri’s kaymak is splendid. Smothered in and balanced by honey that doubtlessly came from hardworking Turkish honeybees, my first bite reminds me of the first time I ever tried crema Salvadorena. It’s rich yet airy, sweet without being cloying. I take a few bites from my little tub and carefully wrap up the rest for later in the room and make my way onto the glorious streets of Kumkapi.
It’s right near dusk and there’s a purple glow settling on the city as I begin my hike back into Sultanahmet. It will prove to be my only visit to Kumkapi on this trip but as I plan my next Turkey visit I can’t wait to get back and do some serious eating in this historic section of Istanbul.
Address: Ordekli Bakkal Sok. 17, Kumkapi
Telephone: 212-517 -2256