I nearly collapse when the cashier informs me that my single breakfast taco is going to run me $2.27.
I weigh my options.
The young-buck worker looks pretty fit so the shuck and run move probably won’t work. I can picture him tackling me in the blacktop parking lot and it’s not a picture I relish.
Feigning going to the Econoline for more money then just keeping on going is not going to work because I’m starving.
Reluctantly I reach deep, deep into my pockets and begin pulling out the usurious fee for my breakfast. The man coldly appraises me. He’s a mind reader and can tell that I’m not pleased with the transaction.
I make my way to the salsa bar and gather up three ramekins to sample as broadly as possible Polvo’s sauce offerings: a standard tomato, a verde and a heavily roasted version that looks like watery, chocolate pudding.
I’m disconsolate by this point but the clouds clear when I bite in to my taco.
It’s quite good.
The corn tortilla is honorable, homemade and fresh with a good flavor of maize. I doubt the presence of manteca but it’s still a nice version.
The taco is enormous with two lightly scrambled eggs and a good dousing of cheese. I can’t remember the last time I had a taco this size so there is some value afoot here.
The salsas are forgettable offering little in the way of flavor. It’s long been one of the knocks on Polvo’s, the food looks good on the plate but lacks the depth of flavor that the better Mexican houses in town feature.
I’m still acquainting myself with this new Austin that we’re living in these days.
It wasn’t terribly long ago that a breakfast taco north of two bucks would’ve found an angry mob chasing the chiseler up the side of Mt. Bonnel. If a police officer intervened the crowd would politely explain the scenario, then like as not, the officer would’ve joined in the chase, truncheon in hand.
Apparently those days are gone.
2004 S 1st St
About the Stars:
4 **** Extraordinary, life changing
3 *** Excellent
2 * Very good
1 * Good
0 * Mediocre to Acceptable
Quality, price, service and ambiance are all taken into account when rating