Category Archives: Istanbul

Istanbul Confidential Part 2. Drinking Under the Radar: Enginar

On my many walks up the side of the mountain that leads to Beyoglu,  I sometimes become plumb tuckered by the time I get to the Galata Tower. A respite is in order and I often find refuge at Enginar, … Continue reading

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Istanbul Confidential Part I. Drinking Under the Radar: Araf Cafe

I have my liver drop down and give me 20 every night at Araf Cafe on Balo Sokak during the Beyoglu portion of my Istanbul stay. Perched on top of a 5 floor walkup just down the alley from my … Continue reading

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Who Polishes The Horns? The Question is Finally Answered. Adventures in Istanbul Eating Part 10: Dogu Türkistan Vakfi As Evi [ East Turkistan Foundation Food House ]

As I make my way through Istanbul I’m entranced by the beauty of the mosques. Like a typical tourist I’m snapping away with my camera and one thing I notice through my viewfinder is how shiny the horns atop the … Continue reading

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Who Polishes The Horns? Adventures in Istanbul Eating Part 9: Aria Cafe in Sultanahmet

During my week long stay in Sultanahmet I spend a lot of time at Aria. It’s right down the street from my inn and a convenient place to take my morning tea as I calibrate myself for a long day … Continue reading

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Who Polishes the Horns? Adventures in Istanbul Eating Part 8: Gaziantep Burc Ocakbasi

I rarely [outside New Orleans, Louisiana] have a double lunch but I’ve been walking upwards of 10 miles per day in Istanbul and consequently have an appetite like lumberjack. So immediately after my Kara Mehmet visit I recon back through … Continue reading

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Who Polishes The Horns? Adventures in Istanbul Eating Part 7: Kara Mehmet Kebab Salonu

The Grand Bazaar is a hard shot to the belly; a frantic maelstrom of shoppers, street hustlers, carpet hawkers, housewives, backpackers, and characters both savory and otherwise. I have my  bound-itinerary in hand with Kara’s address, and it’s an excellent … Continue reading

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Who Polishes The Horns? Adventures in Istanbul Eating Part 6: Furreya Fish House

Back in Squaresville aka Texas, USA, once 9 pm roll s around your dining options begin to seriously dwindle. Yeah, there are places open but alot of prime choices [particularly family run] are closed or about to close. Not so … Continue reading

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Who Polishes The Horns? Adventures in Istanbul Eating Part 5: Siirt Seref Kebap Salonu, Since 1892

The usta [pit boss] has his game face on today. After a 90 minute hike out of Sultanahmet I’m in serious need of sustenance but my confidence is high. I’m about to try slow cooked Siirt [ southeastern Turkey ] … Continue reading

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Who Polishes the Horns? Adventures in Istanbul Eating Part 4: Emin’s Place

When the cat from Senegal [a fancy lad] pulls out his congo I figure things might get a little rififi. Then the guy from Romania whips out his violin and it’s flat out on! Afro jazz beats slap up against … Continue reading

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Who Polishes The Horns? Adventures in Istanbul Eating Part 3: Sehzade Erzurum Cag Kebabi

In spite of my dressing down in Istanbul, the roving rug salesmen have me fingered as a money-mark from USA. I wear a backpack, keep my boots scuffed, and try to stay as non-descript as possible. That being said, these … Continue reading

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Who Polishes The Horns? Adventures in Istanbul Eating Part 2: Boris’ in Yeri

Once you muscle your way past the sidewalk hawkers trying to corral you into one of Kumkapi’s numerous fish restaurants you can find some good places to eat. The backstreets of this lovely neighborhood are chock a block with fresh … Continue reading

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Who Polishes The Horns? Adventures in Istanbul Eating, Part 1: Doyuran Lokantasi

Forward:  The first Istanbul restaurant review I ever read was for Doyuran Lokantasi in Istanbul’s Kumkapi neighborhood. I used it as an impetus to get my ass on over to Istanbul and explore what promised to be an epic food … Continue reading

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