Monthly Archives: September 2010

Rampart Food Store: The Glories of the Common Corner Store

After being featured in a 36 Hours In New Orleans article in the New York Times, Rampart Food Store hardly qualifies as an undiscovered gem. But that’s what it feels like. It’s wonderfully shabby with hand written signs everywhere telling … Continue reading

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Cafe Amelie: Back to Cooking School

Have you ever considered becoming a chef? Go to work at a Waffle House for a couple months and if you can cut it there you might have what it takes to be a professional cook. This is the advice … Continue reading

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Verti Marte Rises Phoenix Like From The Ashes In New Orleans

Back in May when Verti Marte burned down, there was a lot of debate as to whether the old girl would reopen or not. I just stuck my head in the door a few minutes ago. A workman informed me … Continue reading

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The State of Barbacoa in Austin Texas Part 5: La Hacienda

Mexican supermarkets dot the landscape of Austin like bluebonnets in the springtime. While La Michoacan has long been my favorite I’ve always had a love for La Hacienda as well. When I assigned myself this barbacoa project I decided to … Continue reading

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Letter From an Istanbul Kitchen Part Eight: Haci Abdullah. Ottoman Steamline Cuisine

Contrasts abound at Haci Abdullah the venerable [ 1888 ] Beyoglu cafeteria. Yes, it’s billed as Ottoman palace cuisine and yes its kitchen shows a careful hand with the classics. A shank of lamb braised with tomatoes, okra and potatoes … Continue reading

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The State of Barbacoa in Austin Texas Part 4: Los Altos

The charms of Los Altos are many. I’ve long contended that out of the two hundred plus Mexican restaurants in Austin they put the finest, gratis, chips and salsa on the table. A smiling Mexican girl is the delivery system … Continue reading

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The State of Barbacoa in Austin Texas Part 3: La Monita-Best Meathouse in Austin

Fresh off a hard nights work the hooker strolls in to La Monita looking right at famished. Wielding a dollar bill she approaches the counter girl “gimme a dollars worth of pork skins”. The worker chooses the largest one out … Continue reading

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Letter From An Istanbul Kitchen Part Seven: Lades 2. A Diner In The Beyoglu

I have a passion for soup. I make 6 quarts a week [that’s the size of my kettle] and have done so for the last several years. My friends are big eaters and they need good soup for sustenance. Lades … Continue reading

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The State of Barbacoa in Austin Texas. Part 2: La Fogata

Over on the Chowhound board this tiny food cart on Burnet Road gets a lot of love. Living about 75 blocks away has precluded me from visiting til this mornings course of events carries me deep into the heart of … Continue reading

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The State of Barbacoa in Austin Texas. Part One: Fiesta Mart [ Day One of 7 Barbacoa Tacos in 7 Days Project ]

Day One of 7 Barbacoa Tacos in 7 Days Project Continue reading

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The State of Carnitas in Austin Texas. Part Seven: El Zunzal [ Final Installment of 7 Carnitas Tacos in 7 Days Project ]

The first time you visit a restaurant can lay the course for your patronage. Tossed out on your ear after drunkenly wrangling with the barkeep over a shot of Hot Damn…helping the waitress wrap silver so you can adjourn together … Continue reading

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Brady Texas 37th Annual International Goat Cook Off: The Goat Goes on Forever and the Party Never Ends

I have a strong goat history. As a child I had a pet goat named, of course, Billy. Billy hanged himself. He was a young, athletic billy goat, and kept getting in trouble so we tethered him. He catapulted himself … Continue reading

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